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  1. #1

    Little help with Suzuki/Aprilia 'lectrics...

    So, I managed to track down an Aprilia dash to fit to my RG500 to replace the Koso dash which replaced the OEM clocks (because the Aprilia front end I fitted to the RG doesn't have a mechanical speedo drive).

    Anyway, I've now hit a showstopper with the adaption of said (Aprilia) dash to the RG's wiring, i.e. I can't figure out the logic of some of the individual circuits.
    Some dash functions/lights seem to require +ve switching, some seem to require -ve switching and some use a combination of the two?

    Is there any chance one of the local 'lectronic gurus (I'm looking at you, John ) might be available at some stage to help me figure this out?

    Happy to bring the bike and bits to you or whatever suits...

  2. #2
    Would love to help, but will be away travelling for work for the next 3 weeks or so..
    But that said possibly will have some time to kill during that period, so post or email ( the full wiring diagrams for both bikes, maybe I can work it out from that.
    I would assume as much as possible, you would like to keep the RG harness stock?

    Maybe Reg has some time on his hands at the moment...

    Cheers John

    "But what would I know, I cant even diagnose a vacuum leak"

  3. #3
    Still not back at work yet, and have finally had some pay go into my account after several weeks (6) without.... so stress level is a bit lower....

    Best grab the wiring diagrams as John says so that the voltages can be found, like, are they 12v or 5v logic level, usually, the ones that are switched with negative are done with an NPN transistor powered by the microprocessor.

    I'll see what I can chase up as far as wiring diagrams go...

  4. #4
    Ta mate, much appreciated.

    AFAIK, it's all 12V switched.

  5. #5

  6. #6
    Which bits are you having issues with?

  7. #7
    Ok, looking at the RG’s dash and Gammaboy’s RS250 diagram, I’ve found something like this.

    Looks like a 20 pin connector for RS dash and the pin numbers and wiring colours are a bit hard to read.

    Pin 1, Multifunction right module, R/O and is ignition on, same as Orange on RG.
    Pin 2, Coolant temperature, O/GY and would be B/G on RG.
    Pin 3, Oil level, V and would be BL/W on RG, NOTE, this is a diode and might have a resistor somewhere.
    Pin 4, Neutral, BL/BK and would be BL on RG.
    Pin 5, Lap??? O/W, interesting one…
    Pin 6, Speed sensor, V/GY, watch this and Pin 12, might be 5 volts.
    Pin 7, Hi Beam, Y/GY, be same as Y on RG.
    Pin 8, Batt. R/G, be same as the red wire after the fuse on RG, looks like connected to battery through a fuse, might need for clock to keep time? If so, would only draw micro amps in sleep mode, but leave it on long enough (months)… problem.
    Pin 9, Nil.
    Pin 10, Tach signal, V/W, be same as W/BL on RG but be aware that RS signal comes from ECU and RG signal comes from CDI unit, RS might be 5volt logic signal and RG could be from coil, check voltage out on RG.
    Pin 11, Nil.
    Pin 12, Speed sensor, O, check with Pin 6.
    Pin 13, Side Stand, Y/V, Cannot see one on the RG, don’t worry about it, ground it to come on.
    Pin 14, Negative, BL/W, same as B/W on RG.
    Pin 15, Negative, BL/W, same as B/W on RG.
    Pin 16, Turn Signal left, Y/lt-BL, same as B on RG.
    Pin 17, Turn signal right, R/Y same as LG on RG.
    Pin 18, Negative, BL/W, same as B/W on RG.
    Pin 19, Dash lights on, Y/BR, same as GY on RG.
    Pin 20, Negative, BL/W, same as B/W on RG.

  8. #8
    seems straight forward, when you write it out donít it...

    "But what would I know, I cant even diagnose a vacuum leak"

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by darkside View Post
    seems straight forward, when you write it out don’t it...

    So, I've had the unit on the bench and tried connecting 12V to it and test the various circuits.

    I can get it to fire up ok, but it seems that some of the circuits require +12V applied to activate, while others require 0V or -12V? to activate.
    It's weird - I'm used to having everything activate only by applying a positive voltage...

    Best demonstrated on the bench - happy to pay anyone in beer to have a look when they're able!

    The wiring translation is the easy part - I can do that.
    Making the circuits work as they're 'programmed' is the hard bit.

    Oh, and we'll have to work off of the pin numbers, not the colours necessarily - I had to by an RSV1000 loom to get the plug for the RS250 dash...

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Gammaboy View Post
    Which bits are you having issues with?
    Pretty much all of them

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