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  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Scrapeit View Post
    Pin 5, Lap??? O/W, interesting one…
    They have a stopwatch built into the dash, triggered by a button on the lh switch gear.

    With the neutral light being triggered from the RGV/RS cdi, it's tied into the ignition interlock with the side stand - I *think* from memory it can be bypassed straight to the switch. With the Oil level being a LED, I think it does away with the diodes and shit that make it light up the oil light when the bike is off and in neutral but switched on - so hooking it straight into the suzuki loom may not work - needs to run straight from the oil level sensor (The aprilia one is a very similar float switch to the suzuki one). I don't have the RG wiring diagram handy, so running from memory.

    What do you mean by applying -12v?

  2. #12
    Having another look now, was a bit late last night...

    Pin 1 and 8.... looking at pin 1 it would seem to be something for the multifunction right module for the lap timer and maybe a clock? it is connected to the ignition switch but ALSO to the 20A fuse from battery or, it is ALWAYS powered even though it runs to the ignition switch... odd??? Pin 8, this is connected to the 15A fuse from battery and is ALWAYS powered, again odd?? as the oil light would be on if low and ignition is off, low current maybe but will drain the battery over a period of time....

    So, I would be putting Pin 1 to the battery as I think that there will be a sleep mode for the clock/timer that would use very low power and should be ok if left for long periods of time without bike running, Pin 8 however, I think this should go to the ignition (orange in Suzuki) as the lamps will not light up if in neutral and ignition is off, currently, according to the schematic, if you moved the Pin 4 BL/BK to the neutral switch wire on RG (BL) the neutral light would be on with ignition off.

    Pin 1 to battery and Pin 8 through ignition switch to Orange wire.

    Hi beam will work when connected to Suzuki yellow wire (hi beam), it is powered by +12, as well as dash lights.

    Neutral is grounded through the neutral switch and in RS dash, has one side of the lamp connected to Pin 8 (+12volts)

    Oil is same as above, ground pin 3 to turn it on but best chuck a resistor on it first just in case it's not setup internally in the dash, 12volts will fry a LED without a resistor on it..

    I'm happy to give you a hand with it but it may not happen until Saturday, I'm the office girl at home here while I'm off work, I have heaps to do as my boss... er wife is quite busy and I'm doing my bit... I'll see if I can get over later today...

  3. #13
    Pin 1/20amp fuse is always on - they do have a clock in the left hand module (and can display volts) - the connection to the ignition switch provides switched ignition to the rest of the fuse block. The 20amper is the main fuse.

    https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/...Dash-Functions

    Pin 8/15amp circuit is switched ignition, not always on.

  4. #14
    Ah yes, correct, and specsavers have sent me a letter so had better get new glasses...

    Out at Paul's place giving him a hand and everything works ok but the tacho, more homework required to see what the signal required is.

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Scrapeit View Post
    Ah yes, correct, and specsavers have sent me a letter so had better get new glasses...

    Out at Paul's place giving him a hand and everything works ok but the tacho, more homework required to see what the signal required is.
    Unfortunately I'm shit out of ideas there other than it'll be looking for 1 pulse per rev (suspect it's a 12v pulse), same signal as an RGV250 tach (RS250 and RGV250s are interchangeable).
    Looking at the diagrams etc for Zeeltronics for RG500s, they provide a 12v pulse for non oem Tachos (http://www.zeeltronic.com/manuals/RG...DI-RGT_con.pdf).
    Looking on the RG wiring diagram, the OE RG tach is fed from the coils (which aren't earthed, worth noting the RG500 ignition is a proper CDI so the coils may see more than 12 volts - both sides of the coils are connected to the CDI)

  6. #16
    Good info there Ben, I was thinking on knocking up a signal generator from an arduino and throw the pulse into the tacho, logic 5v level but I'm assuming a +12volt pulse from your info so I'll have to use a PNP transistor to give the tach input that, I would think it would use a negative going signal but either way, I'll have it sussed.

    I just hope the tach input is ok, Paul may have had a little oopsie....

  7. #17
    Thanks for dropping by mate, that allayed a few of my fears and was bloody helpful.


    Well, what we were doing to the tach would not have done any damage because the blue/white wire is not the tach signal, it's the oil light send...

    The white/blue wire is the RG tach signal and it's separate from that 9 pin connector we were working with.
    Thing is, I realised that eventually and hooked the tach signal wire to the correct (white/blue) wire and got... nothing.

    Hopefully I haven't fried the stepper motor circuitry.

    The RS250 tach must need a pulse rather than CDI/coil voltage?
    Could a 'converter' be manufactured?
    Last edited by gtboy; 10-05-19 at 07:21 PM.

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by gtboy View Post
    Could a 'converter' be manufactured?
    Zeeltronic list one, may be worth flicking Borut an email to ask if it will work with the factory RG CDI.

  9. #19
    Hmmmm.... that would explain that then Paul...
    I don't think it is 'fried' the voltage level was low.

    I think at this stage the tacho needs to be checked that it actually works on the machine it was designed for but in the meantime, I'll do the tach signal generator, at least I can use it to calibrate my tacho.

    And now to get ready, check my tyres, not forgetting to use aeroguard for my rear tyre, lube my chain and head to Power O...

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Gammaboy View Post
    Zeeltronic list one, may be worth flicking Borut an email to ask if it will work with the factory RG CDI.
    I received a reply from Borut - 179 Euros plus 50 Euros postage for the unit.


    It will do what's required, but at that price I'd only consider it if I was going racing... maybe.

    I might pass on that completely and figure out a way to drive the OEM speedo from the hall-effect sensor on the front wheel into a pulse counter driving a small motor to operate the mechanical speedo drive...

    Anyone want an RS250 dash?

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